Orkney

Stories and Fables: Reflections on culture development in Orkney

I fell in love with Orkney as a teenager when I read George Mackay Brown’s novel, Magnus. His evocation of the ancient but somehow timeless islands north of the north of Scotland was captivating. It was nearly 40 years before I was able to see them myself, with the task of understanding and drawing lessons from the archipelago’s remarkable cultural life, and in particular its flowering since the 1970s, when George Mackay Brown met the composer Peter Maxwell Davies on the island of Hoy—a chance encounter that let to the creation of the St Magnus International Festival.

Orkney is one of the oldest inhabited parts of the British Isles, with the Ring of Brodgar and the settlement of Skara Brae, only the most famous of a series of exceptional neolithic sites. Successive ages have left their mark too, from Viking runes to the beautiful cathedral of St Magnus. But it was the living culture I learned about, as varied and impressive as you could hope to find anywhere. I met many exceptional artists and activists in Orkney, and many welcomed me into their homes to talk about the culture of their community. My report, commissioned by Highlands and Islands Enterprise, was produced in 2011.

A few years later, I was invited back to Orkney to speak at a research symposium. It was a delight to return, even for a short visit, to a place where I felt I had grown to love and where I had met unforgettable friends. It was also a chance to distil the much longer report into a short essay about Orkney and its remarkable culture.

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra and the St Magnus Festival Choir at Pickaquoy as part of this years St Magnus Festival. 19/6/11 Tom O’Brien